Issues with retention?

There are so many different perspectives on this subject and we’re all way too quick to blame our tools, before ourselves.

It’s only natural, we have all been there and done it, focusing on the products as the problem, and not the procedure. After all, if we were not informed properly in our training then how do we really know?

We continually see things on forums, e.g.; Looking for the best glue for retention, my client lost all her lashes within a week, my retention is not as good as it used to be, my lashes aren’t lasting as well as they used to, my clients are now reacting to the glue, my client is losing all her lashes from only one eye, I don’t like my glue anymore it’s not working why are all the lashes coming off one eye?

Why do you think lash masters, never appear to have retention issues?

It’s because their skill set has improved over time and their foundation skill set is always on point. They have also had great training. Winning the battle with retention can be frustrating and can cost you customers!

I am going to bust some myths and help you understand why these things could be happening to your clients; it’s going to be important to keep an open mind if you have ever had issues with retention, I know it’s super frustrating. I have done many experiments to my ideal clients in my career trying to understand the moody, temperamental “cyanoacrylate.”

The quest for the perfect glue continued I was happily trailing ones that were suggested online, I was always looking for the one! Here’s the ball breaking news – no such adhesive that fits everyone’s requirements exist because we’re all in different conditions.

Asking for recommendations online through open forums, about what glue, is similar to “can someone recommend me some new shoes?” You have no idea what size my feet are, or do I want flat or high heels? Forums, YouTube etc can be misleading doesn’t mean it’s the correct info!

But people wouldn’t ambush us with Reebok and Jimmy Choo hyperlinks; people would ask and figure out, things like, is it an event or are they for work, you would get loads of pinpointed questions, so you get the best response.

99% of the time we have no idea what your conditions are in your room, or how you cleanse or if you don’t cleanse them; how were you trained? it’s all a mystery, and it’s a stab in the dark when commenting.
I have noticed, that is not the case when it comes to products, it seems to be a freefall all, try this try that, It’s hectic out there. “Dealing with glue that does not work, can give you as much frustration as terrible high heels, but yet it still happens.” Let’s look at a few things we can control before we jump to think it’s our adhesive.

Buying random glue can result in so many issues. Especially if it’s CHEAP. Do you know the dry time of your glue? What are the ingredients in my glue? Does my glue come with a MSDS? Is my glue sensitive, fast drying, oil-resistant? Has your glue passed the safety requirements? When you buy from random platforms such as ebay etc you will be faced with these issues. That’s why you should purchase from a reputable company that has done the hard work for you on the research, you will be guaranteed of the quality so if you have issues its most likely you!

Having your lash room regulated for humidity and temperature is important. If your room conditions are not suited, with your choice of adhesive, you’re going to struggle to get the optimum results. Lash glue is at its happiest in 22degrees so make sure your aircon or heater is on winter or summer, so your room sits at 22 degrees. Now for the most confusing subject HUMIDITY!

Confusion lies in the use of the word humidity. Someone somewhere read that cyanoacrylate lash adhesives needs to be 40-70% relative humidity and that is confused with actual humidity. Lash adhesives need to be in 40-70% relative humidity not actual humidity. Cyanoacrylate, the main ingredient in all lash adhesives, is sensitive to relative humidity, not actual humidity. Relative humidity is the measurement of the amount of moisture present, to the ratio of moisture that temperature air can hold. For relative humidity to be outside the 40-70% range we would be physically uncomfortable and would put on the heater or air conditioner. For example, for relative humidity to be lower than 40% you would realistically need to be in a room that is hotter than 90 degrees and in relative humidity of 70% you and your client will likely to be sweating. You can be in a place that is 20% humidity outside up to 90% so relative humidity of 40-70% not actual is a perfect level for lash adhesives. Too much moisture in the air can cause shock polymerization, resulting in a week bond and too little can result in the adhesive to be slow and taking forever to bond. The truth is that actual humidity levels are very rarely an issue at all when performing lash services in a climate-controlled setting. If you are having issues with dry time and retention it is more likely that; the adhesive is poor quality, out of date, applied too thick or incorrect application.

“It’s just science and science is intellectual, factual information.”

Conditions can change very quickly; the conditions are always different multiple times a day. Most lash techs have a sensitive glue, fast and normal dry glue.

I wanted to be able to stick to glues I like to work with and not chop and change between all different companies’ glues. Hence why after so many years of research and have been in the Lash extension industry since 2001, we now have our own high-quality range of Lash adhesive.

My room was in direct heat when I first started; I used to get so hot and struggle to lash all day, once I had my aircon unit It was so much easier to control my conditions. I did take it one step further and moved into a room out of direct sunlight; this was the defining moment for me when I realised the conditions in my lash room were paramount to the retention.

I noticed clients were coming back with a lot more eyelash extensions on, so the bonds I was making, were adhering extremely well to the natural lash. My treatment menu at this stage was only 1.1 I was wrapping, but it was something I was still getting the grasp of, I didn’t learn to master the technique quickly, but slowly I began to understand the concept. When you’re setting your room up you need to take into account so many factors, no direct heat, no fans blowing a breeze over your glue palette, air circulation for fumes, etc.

“Stop and think about the best way you can set you room up effectively for your business, not your decor.” Because it’s all about making the glue happy! You come second.

Monitor your conditions, making notes about clients’ booking, e.g., temp, humidity, cleaned well, no makeup on arrival, which glue you have used. When you’re new to lashing or struggling with retention, taking a few notes can help you immensely when finding the issue out. There are many contraindications (things that would prevent you from doing a treatment) and things to take note of; it can be very overwhelming. But they’re all little lessons, and most of the mistakes, are caused by human error.

I see loads of people comment on posts mostly non-professionals, expressing inadequate information, in regard to retention, not asking enough, countless sales pitches and blurting out, things like “oh it’s her, she’s sleeping on that side”, “she went swimming”, “she apparently damaged them”, I see this daily. I would say 99% of the time it’s you have not correctly made the BOND, in its desired conditions.

That why your retention is suffering.

What causes loss of retention?

• Your room is not regulated, poor conditions for your adhesive.
• Inadequate, cleaning of the lashes, cleanse with a LASH shampoo.
• (Note, insurance won’t cover you for baby shampoo, we have come a long way in the lash world, so move ahead with the industry)
• Old lash glue left remaining on natural lash, can’t get a clean bond.
• Bond not made correctly} a skin has formed on the bead of glue, caused by a breeze, or its very fast setting glue, your speed on that eye can compromise the bond made.
• Not changing your glue drop frequently.
• Blooming or polymerization reaction. (Blooming is that white stuff that can sometimes be found when working with this type of glue)
• Your glue is off, or not being stored correctly.
• Not using a Pre-Treatment to level, the PH and acidity level of the natural lash, and removing proteins and oils. Pre-Treatment will open the hair shaft to absorb the adhesive for better bond.

It’s just science and understanding the concepts, will help you with retention.
If you’re a full-on face sleeper but didn’t lose your lashes? that’s because your lash tech has got the method down pat!

If your bond is not made correctly, yes sleeping will cause loss, but so will brushing them.
Now I am sure there are a few people, that will completely deny this statement, but I would encourage them to look at the science in the glue. I can cleanse my client’s lashes before and after, and they have incredible retention, because of the bonds made.

Yes, you may lose a few through sleeping as well as daily activities, but you shouldn’t be losing a bulk amount. Any inadequate information can potentially cost your business, if you have customers that are losing lashes, it’s best to look at all areas you can control first before we blame the tools/glues.
Documentation is great if you are struggling to figure out, where it seems to be going wrong.
I understand that some customers are terrible when it comes to cleaning their lashes, and they pick at the lashes, but you can tell the difference in the condition of the Natural Lash when they return. ”

“Perfect retention is in the bond made, if you want excellent bonds, create the perfect conditions.”

So, if you’re suffering retention issues, use the simple steps to figure out why, because if your glue is fresh, it’s probably human error.

• You need to regulate your room. 
• Thorough Consultation. 
• Optimize conditions for your adhesive. 
• Thoroughly clean and rinse your client’s lashes. 
• Prep natural lashes effectively for the client’s needs. 
• Change your adhesive drop out regularly, so it’s fresh. 
• Make bonds correctly. 
• Wrapping the lashing, and encasing the bond are better, especially with volume.
• Store your glue correctly.
• Off load and swipe a small amount first on the natural lash then apply.
• Hold the lash on the natural lash for the dry time of the glue.

I hope this gave you a bit more understanding 🙂 and will help with your lashing!

Remember we are here to help so reach out!

Carole & the Ceecees team